Photograph by Irina Boersma
Home to some of London’s greatest icons, including The Ritz, Fortnum & Mason and the tailors, artisans and merchants of Jermyn Street, St James is a fine tradition. Undeniably popular with tourists, new openings that bridge contemporary and ground breaking perhaps aren’t so commonplace. Until 2017 and with the addition of Ikoyi – a fusion of cultures and experiences which delivers original cuisine and a melting point of West African flavours.
Photograph by Irina Boersma
Since then, the restaurant has been awarded two Michelin stars, earned a highly envied spot on the World’s 50th Best list and caused such intrigue as perhaps the early days of Stockholm’s Noma. Fast forward a couple of years, the restaurant can now add another impressive credential to its list as Best Restaurant in Wallpaper* magazine’s Design Awards 2023.
Photograph by Irina Boersma
Having relocated to its new residence on 180 The Strand in November 2022, Ikoyi is causing new shock waves throughout London’s food scene. Now sitting pretty in a spectacularly unique Brutalist office block-turned-cultural hub, Ikoyi has been granted the magic hand of Danish architect David Thulstrup of Studio David Thultstrup (who coincidentally masterminded the interiors for the aforementioned Noma and its current location in Copenhagen, and which also won Best Restaurant in the Wallpaper* Design Awards 2019).
Photograph by Irina Boersma
With a brief to create a space that reflected co-founders Jeremy Chan (and chef) and Iré Hassan-Odukale vision of global modernism: “placeless, free, unfixed and personal”, the street-level space is quite a wonder. Inspiration was garnered from a series of mood boards which incorporated scenes from set designs of Ridley Scott movies, Richard Serra sculptures and the architecture of places of worship, the interior can be considered minimalist all the while indulgently textured.
Photograph by Irina Boersma
Muted minerals, earthy tones and natural textures, it’s a dream made in House of Kip heaven. One of the focal points of the main dining space is a striking woven steel mesh that stretches across the ceiling to denote sieves used to handle spices. With a nod to the architect’s Scandi origins, seating throughout is upholstered leather from iconic eco Danish supplier, Sørensen. Paying respect to its London location, the custom-made tables are manufactured by Benchmark Furniture in British Red Oak.
The benefits of Ikoyi’s new location including, a notably larger reception area, lined with three bespoke ageing chambers (for meat), a leafy garden to the back and an intimate dining room for private soirees. Concealed by a chocolate-hued curtain, a curved banquette allows for six to comfortably dine around a striking circular table.
Photograph by Maureen M.Evans
Now onto the food and a tasting menu that incorporates 26 courses and is ever popular for foodies. Pushing the boundaries in experimental cuisine, Ikoyi presents a range of flavours for diners. Serving signature dishes such a plantain which is firstly made into a paste and then steamed into a 3D-printed mould structure.
Cultural references from France to Nigeria can be sought in plates including the drunken chicken toast and a chicken sausage that is marinated with a vin jaune. Infused with African peppercorns and paired with soft toast topped with a mushroom emulsion caramelised in chicken fat, it’s truly a taste sensation.
Photograph by Maureen M.Evans
And to drink? Diners can wash these formidable plates with wine pairings masterminded by head sommelier Lorenzo Lentini. With a focus on traditional wine regions and emerging producing areas, get ready to get stuck in. For those seeking a more tee-total experience, there’s a non-alcoholic pairing of international teas one can opt for.
Proud of their new creation, Chan as one half of their founding unit says, “We’ve come a long way in a short space of time. We want to give hope to a new generation of chefs to be bold and creative, and to take massive risks.”
Ikoyi, 180 Strand, Temple WC2
ikoyilondon.com
